It is not that the architecture in Pyongyang has to be world standard, or even of a good standard at all; the people just need to believe that it is. In fact, due to the level of control, the buildings need only to do the bare minimum, capturing an architectural idea in order to convince the people of a notion of power, progress or wealth. The level of isolation is such that there is no way for citizens to compare the structures of their home country to the grandiose buildings of power around the world. Koreans I spoke to in the Grand People’s Study House seemed convinced, and in their minds rightly so, that this admittedly impressive building was the greatest in all of the world. Why shouldn’t they? The Arch of Triumph, a gigantic arch straddling one of the main highways through the city adorned with stories of Kim Il Sung, receives no comparison here with its counterpart in Paris or any other Roman arch around the world before that. It just has to be a symbol of power, wealth and, in the minds of the people, be an idea conceived by their leader. It does what it’s meant to do—people speak of the buildings with genuine pride in their eyes, and they see them as a gift from their leaders to whom they are ever grateful. This is, of course, after over 60 years of socialist rule. Few in the country would have been alive to see the city before the Kim dynasty; those that were must only remember it as a pile of rubble after years of war.
After the Korean War the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK), led by Kim Il Sung and supported by the Soviets, was left with a scene of complete and utter destruction; with the exception of a handful of buildings Pyongyang had been completely flattened. For a young general with socialist ideals this was seen as a clean slate, on top of which a new country, both physically and ideologically, could be built. Today, even with knowledge of the outside world, it is hard not to admire the clear, axial urban plan of the city designed with the help of established communists, the Soviet Army. The designers of Pyongyang focused on portraying ideals to the individual on the ground. Standing at the foot of a monument celebrating the Worker’s Party, clear views open up across huge lawns adorned with fountains, and over the river Taedong to gigantic statues of both the late leaders. The monument symbolizes an appreciation of the people, idolizes their community spirit, and looks out to the men that supposedly gave them this city. Even to a visitor it’s a powerful motif and a spectacular view, and for a split second this tranquil viewing point might even make you believe that maybe people don’t have it so bad here. It’s not until the apartment blocks in your peripheral vision come back into focus with their missing windows and permanently sodden concrete that you remember just how poor the quality of life in this city is in comparison with the initial dream of a socialist utopia that was planned decades ago.
The Soviets, during their partnership with Kim Il Sung’s regime, left behind some monumental and genuinely impressive buildings, but almost overnight the Soviet Union collapsed and suddenly the North Korean regime was left without money or support. As the DPRK pushed to maintain an image of power and strength in the eyes of its people, genuine quality was replaced for buildings that merely gave the impression of wealth; construction quality plummeted and build speed increased. Even today buildings are in almost all cases constructed with weak and rudimentary concrete blocks that are hand shaped and comprised primarily of ballast. But to the layman on the street it looks like the city is in a constant state of rapid growth, and of course no one hears about it when an apartment block collapses. A recent development, named “Dubai” by expats living in the city, is an attempt at creating modern riverside apartment blocks. But don’t let the multi-colored neon lights fool you, the buildings themselves are but poorly made, barely insulated shells not suited for a standard of living even close to what you’d imagine. To your average North Korean however, they’re seen as the ultimate trophy home, one they might be awarded if they do their best for the Party; sadly, they don’t know any better.
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